Coming to Melrose: The One-Dish Restaurant

Like steak frites? Like, very, very much? You're in luck.

There was a move, over the last few decades, to create shopping and dining experiences that could only be described as embracing a mega-super-mondo variety. Anything you wanted? You could have, or nearly.

But a movement toward a bespoke, tailored, and singular meal or shop rose in response. Some might point to the One Book Bookstore of Bisbee, Arizona -- that was a town favorite a couple of decades back -- or the bars that create handcrafted liquid works of art in very small batches.

Or L'Assiette. Jacques Fiorentino will open the new restaurant in Melrose Avenue in the coming weeks, and, wait for it, there's only one thing on the menu: steak frites.

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Yes, there are cheeses you can order, to enhance your steak frites enjoyment, and dessert as well, but le meat and le potato are the main attraction.

"(A) grilled sirloin dressed with traditional house-made sauce accompanied with classic, golden pomme frites" is the delish deal, but the meal is delivered in two portions. More pomme frites may show during the course of your visit, because, as Mr. Fiorentino says, "the dish is only perfect when the pomme frites are hot... we want the proper appreciation to last throughout the meal."

The savory spot for all of this steakian flavor? Look for it in The Colonial's former location. Mary Anne Reyes of The Colonial is partnering with Mr. Fiorentino and his son Marc on the laser-focused rethinking of the space. Address? Look for it at 7166 Melrose, just west of La Brea Avenue.

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Oh yes, and L'Assiette means "the dish." Done. Clear. Yes.

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Marc Fiorentino says that inspiration comes from visiting Le Relais de Venise, a Parisian steak frites favorite, when he was child. His father concurs, and both men seek to elevate the steak frites from its place as one-of-many-choices on a bistro menu.

So... is steak frites one of your dream foods? Or could there be another one-dish restaurant spotlighting the entree you love most? Figure that our ubiquitous food trucks very often focus on one flavor or dish, so it stands that more brick-and-mortar locations might follow with their own highly specific epicurean pursuits.

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