If you swear by dishes with history and claim you're all about retro cuisines that include aspics and consommes, it is time to belly up.
Belly up for liver, that is.
Oh liver. Fans who love you really love you and will defend you with a passion that might make other offal feel awful, if it could. Others who don't love you perhaps misunderstand. But the truth is that your heyday as a menu staple has passed.
But the "whole animal" movement has brought you back into the limelight in recent years, of course. And The Grill on the Alley is doing the same, with a full week devoted to the pleasures of liver. From April 19 to 25 the old-world Beverly Hills steakery will be hosting a liver-based tasting menu. There will be wine pairings and salads and other treats.
The menu starts at $37.75; wine will be extra. This is the perfect moment to return to an organ meat you adore but never see. Or to get introduced.