Vartanian Previews Nameless Restaurant and Café

Market-driven dinner clubs were all the rage in Portland a few years back. By the end of May, developer Sarkis Vartanian plans to debut a forever-nameless concept of his own at 1820 Industrial Street, down the block from Church & State. Expect a café along an elliptical brick-lined alley, complete with Intelligentsia coffee, breakfast pastries, soups, salads and sandwiches. Upstairs, look for dinner in a live-work loft. In both cases, expect a different menu each day, depending on what’s peaking at the market.

Chef Christian Page, co-owner of the Knives and Fire catering company, previously worked in New York at Savoy and The Harrison before moving to Los Angeles to complete an MBA at USC. He plans to source every ingredient from within 100 miles of Los Angeles, and every protein will be grass fed and grass finished.

Last night, Vartanian hosted a dinner party in the white-bricked loft to preview the concept. Page prepared dinner with consulting chef Brian Bistrong, owner of Braeburn in Manhattan’s West Village. Representative dishes included French onion soup with onion bonito broth, scallions and oxtail; slow cooked blue prawn with vinaigrette and heirloom tomatoes; pappardelle with braised osso bucco, roast chicken with spinach and paprika sauce; and skirt steak served in cast iron skillet, presented with dishes of sesame-crusted asparagus, carrot puree and roasted multi-colored cauliflower.

Israel native Ran Zimon will make all the bread, pastries and desserts for the no-name concept. Last night, he prepared a halvah and chocolate mousse cake and a walnut tart with coffee and chocolate mousse.

Breakfast will cost $6, lunch $10, and dinner $35, with a minimum of four courses at dinner. On Saturday night, expect more courses and a higher cost.

Vartanian’s partner in the venture is Shigeki Matsumoto, who owns Café, Casa Arigato and Sushi, Casa Arigato in Redondo Beach. [Feast LA]

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