Photo by Alen Lin
S. Irene Virbila heads over to Sherman Oaks to try Max now that Andre Guerrero turned his six-year-old fusion restaurant into a "global bistro." She digs the vibe and the concept—casual, friendly, neighborly, something more for dropping in any time than saving for a special occasion. It's right for right now, even if it's not entirely original:
You might want to start with an order of his silky, potted chicken liver pâté served in a glass with croustades, or toasts, on the side. That may be taking a page from Palate in Glendale, but why not, if it's such a good idea? Julia Child would be proud to see something she introduced to Americans in the '60s making its way back onto restaurant tables.
Is Miss Irene making a larger point by referencing both Palate (potted meats and pickled vegetables) and Father's Office (there's a good burger, fries and beer)? Perhaps. She still gives Max two stars. Today the "S." stands for "similarities." [LAT]
ELSEWHERE: LAT's look inside Studio City's Laurel Tavern and the new La Vineria Italiana in Long Beach; LAist agrees bundts are the new cupcakes at Kiss My Bundt;
a swarm of bloggers descend on Moles La Tia; and A Hamburber Today dissects the "hamburger sandwich" at The Original Pantry.For more stories from Eater LA, go to la.eater.com.