Cool days call for clam chowder showdowns; Santa Cruz has one of the biggest around

CLAM CHOWDER TIME? That's all the time around certain savory parts of the coast, those California-cool spots that are blessed with big waves and big raves for creamy concoctions. And wherever your favorite clammy bowl happens to be — Mendocino, Bodega Bay, or some sandy hamlet you aren't eager to quickly divulge — you can count on savoring the stuff whatever the season. But if we're going to talk seasons and clam chowder, we must talk about winter, which is when the cockles-warming cuisine truly rises to the top of its clam-saturated class. And before winter is over, one of the chowder-iest destinations in the Golden State pays palate-pleasing homage to those chefs who know how to combine just the right amount of spice, dairy, and bivalve bliss in the pursuit of the perfect steamy cup. That mouthwatering celebration will take place over the final weekend of February, at the Santa Cruz Clam Chowder Cook-Off.

THIS COMPETITION IS VENERABLE, oh yes, which means its reputation for drawing in visitors strolling the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk — that's where it takes place — is solid. Those visitors — some people come by the showdown just by chance, others visit Santa Cruz to take part — get to enjoy lots of slurpy tastes, if they buy a tasting kit. That goes for $15, and a spoon and cup are included. Six tastes are included, which should give any taster a sense of what's bubbling in the pots. Amateur chowder chefs are at those pots on Saturday, Feb. 24, while the pros step in on Sunday, Feb. 25; calling upon the salty scene on either or both days is a-ok (though both days will, of course, deepen your knowledge of this flavorful event). Both Boston and Manhattan styles of chowder will have their times in the spotlight, and entering your own team if that's your dream? Totally possible, but be sure to read up on registration deadlines, information, and what to expect.