Rubber Ducky Cake: Barton G. New

The posh 'n playful eatery introduces a few fanciful new dishes to its line-up.

"Over the top" is trotted out quite frequently these days, all to signify an item or an event or an outfit or an act that has hit the zany zenith, the ultimate level of notice-ability, the place that is above all other comers in its field.

It's a crowded field.

So clearly there needs to be a new way to describe something that surpasses even those lofty markers, perhaps "over over the top." And, for diners in West Hollywood, over over the top can be found at the fantasy-driven dining experience at Barton G. — The Restaurant.

This is the lavish, humorously haute eatery that embraces the odd and gives every plate theatrical oomph. We're not talking about a sprig of parsley placed in a witty position, nor a cunningly sliced piece of bread; rather, a number of meals arrive within a staged scene that goes well beyond the traditional round plate.

A pompadour-tall cotton candy dessert, an ode to Marie Antoinette, is served atop a mannequin-ceramic head, for example. Not many ceramic heads are ceremoniously delivered to many restaurant tables outside of Barton G., we'll surmise.

Thus when fresh fare pops up on the menu, with a grand "ta-da!," people seeking over over the top eating opportunities take notice, as they have in recent days with the new additions to the Barton G. menu.

Gaze upon the dessert delectables, if you will, including Rubber Ducky, You're the One, a coconut angel cake served in a chocolate tub, complete with passion fruit-chocolate ducklings. And Dolla Dolla Bills Y'All is a s'more tribute served under "a gold brick shell." Under that fancy dome? Chocolate ganache and dulce de leche tart.

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If you're worried that menu classics like the Rake and Ho Garden, which is served in a tiny wheelbarrow, or the Mousetrap Mac and Cheese, a dish that's presented on a mousetrap-like dish, have gone away, fear not: Those and other favorites power on, bringing over-over-the-top vibes, nightly to the La Cienega Boulevard theatrical dining room.

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